The di Lusso Estate Mudgee


Parla come mangi! – Speak the language of your food
"Over the years, since the early 1990's in fact, I'm beginning to think, and more importantly TALK about wine and food like an Italian. First it was grapes and olives, then figs I 'had' to grow on my farm; then herbs and vegetables. Earlier this year it was saffron. From February I'm 'going locavore' with the wine-tasting food I serve in my winery."



Wednesday, December 28, 2011

How to construct an instant Grand Cru vineyard in Burgundy


Seeing a cloud of dust towards the top of the Cote d’or near Gevry Chambertin in Burgundy, we found that it was a vineyard being ‘built’…just lift the existing topsoil to one side, then bring in a massive machine to break up the underlying rock, replace the topsoil..and there you have it – soil to grow Pinot Noir to make Grand Cru Burgundy to sell at a few hundred dollars a bottle. “Brand leverage”, I think it’s called!

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Ancient olive trees in a parking lot in Northern Italy


There’s something very sad about a whole row of 500 year old “second hand” olive trees sitting in a parking lot near Ventimiglia in Liguria, waiting for a buyer. They’re probably Taggiasca, arguably Italy’s finest oil producing tree. How long they’d been there, I don’t know.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Cellaring Your Wine

“How long should I cellar this wine for?” is a frequent question asked of cellar door staff. 


Although most often we glibly respond to the enquiry after a discrete look at the back label or tasting notes, the answer should be prefaced with a whole range of consideration around the cellaring conditions, personal cellar management and so on. 


The following is a summary of the factors worthy of consideration on this fascinating topic. 


Why should I start a cellar? 


By building up a stock of wines you are able to buy wine in bulk at a good price, to hold wine that will benefit from aging and to compare wines from different vintages and wineries. 


Your cellar also allows you to select a wine at any time without having to visit the wine shop. 


Your cellar will give you many years of enhanced wine pleasure as both your collection and knowledge of wine grows. 


How do I start collecting wines to form a cellar?
Make four resolutions. 


  1. Set the number of bottles you would like to hold.
  2. Buy extra bottles when you are buying a wine you like.
  3. Use a system to record the extra bottles and store them somewhere cool and dark.
  4. Before drawing a wine from your cellar remember resolution 1 and consider resolution 2.
How do I know what wine to cellar? 


Wines benefit from “cellaring” – many for a few days or weeks only before drinking, others for many months or years. Your cellar becomes a store from which you can draw a wine to suit most occasions. Start by cellaring the wines you are currently enjoying and extend to wines that will expand your range of vintages and varieties; you should avoid carrying too many of one variety or vintage. Be guided by others tasting notes and choose wines you are confident you will enjoy in the future. Use a system – either computerized or mechanical - to record your tasting notes and reorder your favourites. 


How long do I keep wines for? 


Ask the sales person when you buy the wine or contact the winery for good advice; many wineries now publish cellaring information on their websites. 


Any information given will assume that your cellar maintains optimum conditions. If this is not the case, you will need to adjust the storage time - remember that it is always better to open a bottle too soon than too late. By using your chosen cellar door system diligently you will ensure your wines are opened at their optimum.


What are the optimum storage conditions for wine? 


Wine should lie undisturbed in a quiet, dark and slightly humid place, within a temperature range of around 15 degrees. Wine stored in temperatures above the optimum will age faster. A light and dry atmosphere does not suit good wine storage. Choose a space that will remain constantly cool and dark. 


What do I put my bottles in? 


There are many alternatives on the market, or you can create your own racks or bins. Bins can be created from wooden boxes set in a diamond profile and racks can be built up using timber planks resting on bricks. 


Using some proprietary systems, bottles do not need to be held in individual cells. Each bottle can have a numbered neck tag placed on it and your choice, selected from a cellar list, is located by finding the numbers. 


How many bottles should I store? 


Store as many bottles as space and funds will allow, but be aware of the drink-by dates. If you find yourself holding wines for too long, it may be that you are cellaring too many bottles, or not sharing enough with your friends! On the other hand, you should store at least enough bottles to allow the selection of a wine to suit most occasions. Your wine appreciation will grow with cellaring, so your original goal may change with your growing enthusiasm. 


What is the cost of cellaring wine?


Cellaring wine will lead to greater wine appreciation and this can lead to more expensive wines being purchased. However many people find that the satisfaction gained from drinking higher quality wines actually reduces the quantity consumed. In addition the ability to buy wine when a good deal is found can result in major savings, while having the correct wine on hand for any occasion will give you greater value for money. Cellaring with Vinoté can save you money.


How do I manage my cellar? 


Each case or bottle can have a numbered neck tag placed on it, before being put to rest in the cellar. Data on that wine, including any tasting notes of yours or others, is recorded in your Cellar Book (manual or electronic). Your selection is made from the cellar list, and you locate your choice by finding the numbered neck tag. Your tasting notes and the removal of the wine can be recorded after the event. 


How do I get the most from my cellared wines? 


Store them correctly.


Know when to open them, using a good wine cellar program.


Know which wines have been opened, using individual bottle tags.


[Post Script. A south Gippsland winery, Gurdies, has written a terrific electronic booklet on cellaring wines. It’s available on their website www.thegurdieswinery.com.au. It’s well worth a look!]

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

How is Wine Judged?

Exhibits in all Australian Wine Shows are judged on a comparative basis - all the entries are judged at the same time, on a point score with a maximum of 20 points. On the judging sheet this is divided into
  • 3 points for colour
  • 7 points for nose
  • 10 points for palate
Medals are awarded on the following basis:
  • 18.5-20 points - Gold Medal
  • 17.0-18.4 points - Silver Medal
  • 15.5-16.9 points - Bronze Medal
Trophies are awarded to the highest scoring wines in each trophy category eg "Best Red Wine on Show". If scores are equal at that point, the initial set of judges re-tastes the wine and scores it again.

The 100 Point System
An alternative numerical rating system currently in use is that of American Wine Critic, Robert Parker. His "100-point" system was first devised in 1978. Wine Spectator adopted Parker's model in 1985 and other reviewers have since followed suit. These scales usually rank wines from 50 to 100 points (not 1-100), on colour and appearance, aroma and bouquet, flavour and finish, and overall quality level or potential.

In Australia, James Halliday is the leading proponent of this system, although on a 75-100 point scale.

A typical breakdown of a 100 point scale system could be as follows;
  • 95-100 = Classic: a great wine
  • 90-94 = Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style
  • 85-89 = Very good: a wine with special qualities
  • 80-84 = Good: a solid, well-made wine
  • 75-79 = Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

How is wine made?

There are many variations on the basic wine making technique although essentially the production of wine can be broken down into a few main stages. (For information on how Champagne is made see other related articles). 


Terroir and Harvesting Terroir is the French word for soil, but when applied to wine it has a broader definition – it refers to the range of conditions that apply to the growth and ripening of grapes in a specific region - soil, elevation, slope, aspect, climate and seasonal weather patterns, etc. In other words…”all factors connected to the wine”.



Without doubt, the potential for consistently good wines is established in the vineyard; the harder and smarter the work here, the better placed the winemaker is to optimize the potential of his or her winemaking goals.



Choosing the right time to harvest a grape is the next important decision. The vineyard and winemaking team agree on a host of factors, including the flavor profile, colour, acid and tannin levels they are aiming for in their ‘end result’.



Crushing and de-stemming 

Generally using machinery, grapes are removed from their stems (except in ‘bunch-fermented styles), and the skins gently crushed to release grape juices (called ‘must’). 
Pressing and fermentation of white grapes.



White wine grapes are then generally pumped gently through a heat-exchanger (to around 15 degrees centigrade) before being pressed – again, mostly mechanically in an air-bag or basket press, and within 24 hours of crushing.



Fermentation (the conversion of sugar to alcohol) generally takes place in a tank (stainless steel or plastic); a natural process that is generally aided by the addition of yeasts carefully selected to suit best the required wine outcome. ‘Wild yeasts’ are sometimes used, these being yeasts existing in the winery atmosphere.


Fermentation and pressing of red grapes 

For red grape wine making, fermentation generally precedes pressing, as the amount of contact a wine has with grape skins will affect its flavor, colour, aroma, acidity and tannin levels. In reds, this can occur in concrete, plastic or steel tanks. Maceration of red must (the process of ‘soaking’ to extract these desirable attributes) is generally more than ten days, sometimes much longer.

Malolactic fermentation In wine-speak, “malo” is a fermentation option used almost universally in reds and sometimes in whites – generally shortly after the primary fermentation to add complexity and mouthfeel softness to a wine (by ‘de-souring’ or de-acidifying it)



Clarification, stabilization, maturation and fining With fermentation complete, the yeast will die, leaving a wine still containing the yeast and other residue.



Racking is the term used where the wine is passed from one vessel to another – sometimes twice a month for many months – with the residue left at the bottom being discarded. 


One of winemaking’s biggest decisions concerns the selection of a maturing vessel (particularly in reds), as between oak (and what type and how old, how big etc!), stainless steel, special plastics, a combination of some or all, etc, etc



Before bottling, the wine undergoes fining- a process of removing finer particles that may interfere with the look of the final product- generally using egg white in reds and milk powder in whites filtered.



Further mechanical filtering takes place prior to final bottling. 


Bottling The decision of when to bottle (which includes an assessment of whether the chosen ‘end’ style is more suited by maturing as described above, or in bottle), what closures to use (natural or composite cork, screw cap, glass etc, etc) and when to release the wine is the final major winemaker/owner point of discussion.

In most cases, these decisions are circumscribed by winery space and equipment availability, economics, the timing of vacations (!) and so on.



In summary The glass of fine wine in your hand is the end result of a long process involving disciplines ranging from biology, chemistry, physics and economics to logistics. Method and discipline are essential, but then so too is a temperament of experimentation and a willingness to take calculated risks. Truly a blend of science, art and economics!

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Cinema di Lusso

January 26th to 29th - 6.30pm to 10.00pm

Four of Italy's best movies of recent years with food and wine from DI LUSSO ESTATE

Wednesday 26th - I'm Not Scared! (2003)
A Child awakens to the frightening world of adults
Thursday 27th January - My Brother is an Only Child
Winner of four David Donatello awards
Friday 28th January - Quiet Chaos (2008)
Great acting by Nanni Moretti as a grieving husband
Saturday 29th January - Life is Beautiful (1998)
1998 Academy Award winner, starring Roberto Benigni

$50 Includes three courses of regional Italian food and di Lusso wine
Prepaid bookins 02 6373 3125

Di Lusso Estate Winery Euruderee Lane, Mudgee